Monlam Pavilion Grounds,
February 6, 2020

This year at the Kagyu Monlam, expanded wellness efforts have extended the practical impact of the festival, with hundreds of attendees and local people receiving free, timely medical attention.
In past years, a free medical camp for local people, organized by Lhakpa Tsering, head of Tsurphu Labrang’s Delhi office, was located across the street from the Akong Tulku Rinpoche Memorial Soup Kitchen, quite a distance from the Pavilion. But Dr. Tsering was unavailable this year, and both Tibetan and Western medical camps, running concurrently, are on the pavilion grounds, which continue to grow and diversify in both form and function.

The area directly opposite the rear of the pavilion now sports a lovely new café with seating for about 40 people (and real coffee machines!); tents for Registration, Monlam prayers and donations, and the Monlam shop; and both medical camps. It is a hive of activity, adding energy and benefit to the festival.

A banner announces the Well-Being Free Medical Camp, co-hosted by Delek Hospital and Altruism in Action. Doctors and nurses screen people here for blood pressure, hypertension, diabetes, and hepatitis B, and prescribe allopathic medicines which are dispensed for free in a nearby tent. During a recent afternoon tea break, the popularity of this effort was obvious, with more than 25 people either waiting in line or consulting doctors and nurses. There were many Indian sangha members in their orange robes, as well as Tibetan monastics, lay people, and locals standing in a line which spilled out of the small tent that houses the effort.

Ms. Tsering Palmo of Delhi is the founder of Altruism in Action, which screens people throughout the Himalayan region for hepatitis and dispenses hepatitis vaccines under the auspices of the World Hepatitis Alliance. She is a Registered Nurse (RN) with a degree from an Indian nursing school. She has traveled widely in Ladakh, Dharamsala, and other Tibetan exile communities, screening monks and nuns in the monasteries. Most of her funding comes from the United States’ Tibet Fund. This is her first visit to the Kagyu Monlam in Bodhgaya and she has been very impressed and is happy to be here. She reports that to date she has screened more than 400 people at the Monlam and found 12 people tested positive for hepatitis. She is happy about the chance to provide counseling and encouragement to the monasteries to do this important heath screening. In Delhi, Ms Tsering provides a small guest house available for short stays related to hepatitis treatment. [ More information on this project can be found on her website, https://altruisminaction.org, and on Facebook.]

The Tibetan medical camp is also extremely popular, with a constant stream of people lined up to see the three volunteer doctors — Dr. Mrs. Kalchoe Qusar, Dr. Dawa, and Dr. Sonam Rinchen. The doctors are all former employees of Men-Tsee-Kang, His Holiness Dalai Lama’s medical institute in Dharamsala, which sent 5 staff persons to this year’s Monlam. Mr. Gyalsang Dawa, the Assistant General Secretary of Men-Tsee-Kang Institute, is in attendance at this year’s camp, and he is very happy with the impact the camp is having.

Last year was the Men-Tsee-Kang’s first appearance at the Kagyu Monlam. The Institute was invited by the Monlam committee, which shares the cost of providing the medicines (the doctors offer their time and expertise free of charge). The Monlam pays 70% of the cost, while the Men-Tsee-Kang Institute pays 30%. No other monlams have Men-Tsee-Kang medical facilities, according to Mr. Gyalsang.

Last year, the Institute treated 1700 people over the duration of the 36th Kagyu Monlam. This year, it has already seen more than 800 patients. The doctors efficiently and professionally listen to patients’ pulses and prescribe Tibetan herbal remedies, which are expertly counted out and dispensed in a nearby tent by a group of energetic Men-Tsee-Kang staff ranging in age. A bewildering assortment of medicines, neatly arrayed in jars nesting in plastic tubs, awaits the competent staff as they fill prescriptions. For those unfamiliar with Tibetan medicine, dosages are often three large, round pills after mealtime, crushed and taken with warm water. Duration of treatment can vary from 7 to 10 to 14 days. The pills don’t taste great to western palates, but the benefits of the Tibetan medical system are well- documented, and the treatments are worth the momentary discomfort of chewing up the pills.

This wonderful effort to provide medical care is a manifestation of His Holiness Karmapa’s expanding dharma activity, Lama Chodrak’s ever-expanding vision for the Monlam, and the care and generosity of all the patrons, volunteers, and medical practitioners who make it happen. We are truly fortunate to have the medical camps, as through them we can witness practical, immediate benefits for sentient beings.

Mahabodhi Temple and Monlam Pavilion, February 6, 2020

In the cold, early hours of Thursday morning, Day 5 of the 27th Kagyu Monlam, the assembled monastics and lay devotees took their Sojong vows in the Monlam pavilion, had their simple breakfast of rolls and butter tea, and chanted the Sanskrit refuge prayers as usual. But, as the umdzes and much of the assembly began the Twenty-Branch Monlam, a large group of monks, nuns, rinpoches, and laypeople stood up to make their way to the Mahabodhi Stupa across the fields and byways of Bodhgaya.

By the time they reached the temple, the sun was up on a still-chilly, clear morning. Birds sang from glossy, dark-green treetops; pigeons swooped about and landed on the geometric patterns of the temple’s sandstone spire. Many of the spectators clasped katas and lotus flowers, or carried beautiful offering plates piled with red, yellow, gold, purple, and white blossoms.

At around 7:30, Their Eminences Gyaltsab Rinpoche and Zurmang Gharwang Rinpoche, and Yongey Mingyur Rinpoche arrived at the stupa and were ushered into the main temple. Under the bodhi tree just behind the Vajrasana — the “diamond seat” where Buddha Shakyamuni attained enlightenment — the more than 100 volumes of the Kangyur awaited distribution.

The Kangyur is the Tibetan version of the Buddha’s words; depending on the edition, there are between 101 and 120 volumes. At the Kagyu Monlam each year, these precious symbols of enlightenment are regally carried in a kora, or clockwise circumambulation, of the Mahabodhi temple, by specially chosen gelongs and gelongma — those monks and nuns who hold the full vows of the Vinaya. This year, the gelongma numbered 10. Before the event, the monks and nuns are rehearsed in how to process with the Kangyur. It is carried on the left shoulder; the left hand supports the front end of the text, and the right hand steadies it just before the right shoulder. As they process around the stupa with the Kangyur,
the monastics maintain a meditative state, the head is held straight but the eyes are focused downward.

The spectators, monastic and lay people alike, lined up along the “outer kora,” the upper circumambulation path running along the outer rim of the temple complex. Soon the other-worldly pleading of the gyalings signaled the start of the procession. Through the bodhi trees and across the complex, one could see the majestic procession making its way up the stairs from the temple’s lower level, to the upper kora path. Rays from the still-low sun filtered through wafting clouds of incense.

First came a group of six Tibetan devotees, sweeping and polishing the marble pathway to a shiny gloss. Next, several people strewed carnation blossoms in front of the procession; they were closely followed by two gyaling players, two monks blowing conches, and the incense bearers in their ceremonial yellow hats. Walking in inverse order of seniority, Mingyur Rinpoche, Zurmang Rinpoche, and Gyaltsab Rinpoche, wearing Gampopa hats, were the last of the incense bearers. Behind them came a line of monastics slowly bearing Kangyur Volumes. Khenpo Kelsang Nyima, walking alongside the procession, used a microphone to encourage the spectators to sing “Namo Shakyamunaye” [I prostrate to Shakyamuni] as the Kangyur filed by. There were more gelongs than the 108 volumes of the Kangyur in the procession this year, so those without a Kangyur brought up the rear of the procession, walking solemnly in single-file, with their hands clasped in prayer — the right hand folded face down over the left hand facing up.

Devotees had been asked not to touch the Kangyur volumes or bother the monks and nuns in any way; yet many could not restrain themselves from draping a kata over one of the volumes as it passed, or from offering a lotus onto the top of the Kangyur volumes, which were strewn with flowers. A few elderly Tibetans were seen touching their malas reverently to the Kangyur as it passed and some Chinese devotees pressed small money offerings into the folds of the monks’ robes. Many of the spectators fell into line at the end of the procession, singing “Namo Shakyamunaye”.

When the procession ended, the rinpoches spent a few minutes visiting in the Mahabodhi temple office, and practitioners managed an additional round or two of kora before dedicating their merit and returning to the Monlam pavilion.

After a tea break, the volumes of the Kangyur, carefully labeled, were distributed among the sangha in the pavilion for the annual reading of the Buddha’s words. The monasteries in the Tibetan system are very efficient when it comes to rituals of this sort. Monks and nuns wearing the extra crimson under-shawl of the discipline master, and with numbered, laminated signs hanging from their necks, kept careful track of the portions of text handed to each person who could read Tibetan. It was affecting watching all who could read the scriptures — from elderly Himalayan people, to budding translators from abroad, to the youngest little monks — bent over the texts. Over the course of an hour or so, the assembly read through the entire series of Kangyur volumes, which were then expertly reassembled and carefully bound up in labeled, golden text wrappers, safely put away for next year’s ritual.

It was easy to leap from the morning’s events to imagine or recall similar Kangyur readings from previous years, in other places and times. There is great merit, according to Tibetan tradition, in sponsoring readings of the Kangyur and Tengyur (the Tibetan commentaries on the Buddha’s teachings). Since the Buddhadharma entered Tibet, roughly 1240 years ago, Tibetans have sponsored the printing, inscribing, and reading of these precious scriptures as a way of accumulating merit, eliminating obstacles, and accumulating the causes for positive circumstances. Indeed, our teachers frequently remind us that the dharma is the most important element of the Three Jewels; it is the medicine, the path, the way to enlightenment. Dharma texts are placed high above our shrines, in primacy of place. Tibetans went to great lengths to preserve and maintain their Kangyur volumes amidst invasion and desecration in the mid 20th century. It is thus a fitting tribute, not only to the dharma, but to the reverence and faith in which it is held, that the Kagyu Monlam Chenmo carries out this solemn observance annually.

SThe Foyer outside Tergar Monastery,
February 5, 2020

On this fourth day of the 37th Kagyu Monlam, members and volunteers assembled on the lawn outside Tergar monastery’s main shrine hall for their annual audience with the presiding head of the festival. With His Holiness the Gyalwang Karmapa’s absence from Bodh Gaya this year, His Eminence Goshir Gyaltsab Rinpoche stepped into the role of thanking and celebrating the members and volunteers for helping to make the Monlam a success. A beautiful afternoon made the outside audience special. Monastics sat on cushions at the front, and the rest of the devotees, most wearing white in observance of taking the daily Sojong vows, sat in orderly rows on the grass. Shortly after 3:00 p.m., His Eminence emerged and spoke for perhaps 10 or 12 minutes.

Via English and Chinese translators, Rinpoche offered his heartfelt thanks for the support of the members and volunteers. He commented,

“This year again, we’ve been able to get together for our Monlam in the holy place of Dorje Den [the Vajra seat]; and we have proceeded without any obstacles. We’ve been protected from any outbreak of illness. I acknowledge all the wonderful things happening due to your collective support and express my appreciation for it.”

Rinpoche explained that the Monlam is exceedingly important for our Karma Kagyu lineage, as well as for the spread of the buddha-dharma throughout the world. He said that the Monlam is a service to the fourth buddha, Shakyamuni, the buddha of our age, as well as to the fifth buddha to come, and the one thousand buddhas of the future. He added that the Monlam fulfills His Holiness the 17th Gyalwang Karmapa’s enlightened activity and presages the activity of all future Karmapas.
Rinpoche elaborated,

“Now, what’s emphasized in dharma practice is the mind. You can think that through supporting the Kagyu Monlam, you are serving all the Karmapas and the one thousand Buddhas. In this way, the benefit is enormous. We make the aspiration as boundless as space — may our prayers be limitless and benefit all sentient beings throughout the universe.”

Rinpoche commented that in making this aspiration and in supporting the Monlam, the members and volunteers have accumulated a great deal of virtue. He cautioned that we must not let this go to waste. He promised, “If you continue with your practice and uphold a noble motivation, you will grow into an authentic dharma practitioner.”

Rinpoche reminded those in attendance that His Holiness the Karmapa is following the Monlam from afar, and he expressed the wish that His Holiness could soon reunite with us all at the Monlam. He finished, “I personally wish you a long life free of illness, and a happy, meaningful life. I will hold you in my prayers, as will His Holiness, and I rejoice in your activities.”

Speaking briefly after Rinpoche had left the foyer, Lama Chodrak, organizer of the Kagyu Monlam, appealed to all present for continuing support. He noted that membership tends to wax and wane from year to year; people who attend the Monlam become members for that particular year but don’t necessarily donate from afar on an annual basis. He told the audience that if the Kagyu Monlam can consistently achieve 4,000 members annually, it will be able to pay for all the activities it undertakes. He asked all to help arouse enthusiasm for the Monlam among our friends and dharma siblings when we return to our home countries.

Finally, monastics at the head of the line, members and volunteers filed past the attendants who handed each person a red blessing cord, a precious glass gau containing blessing pills, and a beautiful photo of His Holiness on his regal throne. It was a fitting end to a celebration of generosity.

The Kagyu Monlam brings people together from many different countries to listen to Buddhist teachings and make prayers that resonate throughout the world. In accordance with the wishes of His Holiness Gyalwang Karmapa, the Kagyu Monlam also supports an ever increasing number of Compassion in Action Projects. One such project is the Akong Tulku Rinpoche Memorial Soup Kitchen which for many years has been offering nutritious hot food to the people of Bodhgaya. The seeds of Kindness and Compassion are within all of us and the Soup Kitchen provides an opportunity for these innate positive qualities to flourish.

A team of cooks from Tergar Monastery has set up a small kitchen at the All India Bikkhu Sangha Centre and each day they prepare enough rice, dahl and vegetables to feed around 400 people. Everyone is welcome. There are lots of kids from all different backgrounds, rickshaw drivers, the men on the polio bikes, quite a few people on sticks and crutches, elderly women, mums and babies, some dads with their young children too. They are served by volunteers from countries including France, Germany, Scotland, England, America, Tibet, India, New Zealand, China, Hong Kong, Peru, Lithuania and Taiwan. We are sharing more than food. Those who give and those who receive are all nourished by the experience of meeting in a spirit of friendship.

On the 5th February 2020 the Soup Kitchen was blessed with a visit from Yongey Mingyur Rinpoche. He was greeted by the leader of the All India Bikkhu Centre, Bikkhu Pragya Deep. Rinpoche also took time to talk with the cooks and volunteers and there was an opportunity for photographs before he had to leave for the next appointment in his busy schedule.
The Akong Tulku Rinpoche Memorial Soup Kitchen is organised by the Hart Knowe Trust in co-operation with the Kagyupa International Monlam Trust. Thanks to the support and guidance of Lama Choedrak so many people are fortunate to be able to participate in the Compassion in Action Projects at the Kagyu Monlam as we all do our best to fulfil the vast aspirations of His Holiness Gyalwang Karmapa.